217 – Sunday – 4/15/12 – Bosnia Trip 3

Today was the day to explore Sarajevo. Turning the corner from our hostel, we had the view of this beautiful building...however if you can also see the building that is in the picture closer to the camera, the bullet holes and the plaster covering them. I feel like this picture really shows Sarajevo from my perspective. The city has great beauty, but it is a city that had war, within my life time.  The entire time I was in Sarajevo I kept trying to wrap my mind around this fact- there was a war here in my lifetime.  I know there are countries that see war and know war daily and right now as I write this, but I have never BEEN there and SEEN it. This was a life changing experience.

Cassidy and I set off on our journey to see the city on foot.  Our first stops were to be 2 museums. On our way we took a few photos as well. Just like cities throughout the Balkans you could see socialist architecture next to Ottoman architecture. The city is divided by a river not unlike many other cities. Throughout the city you will see a building that looks new, or untouched, and then the one next to it is demolished and destroyed.  SO many buildings still have bullet holes in them.

Yugoslavia era architecture

On the bridge

One of the destroyed buildings

Our first museum stop was the National Museum.  It was an amazing museum. The main building that you see pictured first, housed the ancient history dating back to Roman times.  Behind the building was a botanical garden courtyard surrounded by 3 other buildings each holding museums as well.  We went to the Ethnographic, History of the 1800s to early 1900s, and a Natural History museum.  It was really wonderful how they had all of these different museums together.  The botanical garden although not in full bloom was beautiful, I can only imagine what it looks like in the middle of summer!

The front of the National Museum

In the botanical garden

botanical garden

Leaving the National Museum we walked a short distance to the History Museum.  On the way we saw the Holiday Inn which is where the journalists stayed during the war from 1992-1995.  The top section was still covered in bullet holes. We were also able to see the old TV tower in the distance.

Holiday Inn is the yellow building

History Museum

TV tower

After the History Museum, we decided we wanted to try and get to the Tunnel Museum on the outskirts of Sarajevo. We boarded a tram, hoping we were following the right direction.  Along the way Cassidy was able to take a few more pictures of buildings.  We arrived at the final stop of the tram, and read the travel book said to board a bus and take it to its last stop as well.  We did so, and again hoped we were right... like the book said, we crossed the bridge went to the left and walked 600 meters (not knowing exactly how far that was)...

Building with bullet holes and holes from the bombing

This building was completely empty covered in damage and graffiti

We walked through the little village, and saw more damage.  But we thought were were on the right track. Then suddenly we were there!  Arriving at the tunnel, the outside of the building was covered in bullet holes. We entered and were greeted by a very kind man who escorted us to a room where a video about the war and the tunnel was played. I was speechless. The video took us back into time with real video during the war. The video was pieced together clips from what seemed to be new stations and amateur home videos. It was a 20 min video but it didn't feel that long...the horror of what the people when through was more than impressed upon me. Following the video, we were escorted through the portion of the tunnel that still exists. The tunnel ran from the edge of the Sarajevo city limits next to the airport, then underground and out to this village. It was used for transporting people, supplies, injured, animals, anything that needed to be safe from bombing and attack. Only part of the tunnel still exists because the section under the airport had to be closed after the war for safety and security reasons. After our walk through the tunnel, the kind man met us again and showed us the museum portion. We saw the carts that were use, as well as the tubing that ran through the tunnel for power, phone, gas and diesel.  He showed us the cart the president was transported through the tunnel on, and then he pointed over to the helmet sitting beside it and said, "That is my helmet".  He proceeded to explain to us that he was responsible for driving his truck with the supplies from the tunnel up to the mountains each day. He said, I was lucky I survived many of my friends did not. They would have to drive at night through the mountains without their headlights on so as not to be seen by the other forces. After walking through the museum, Cassidy asked him if we could get our picture with him and his truck. He graciously said, of course.  I think that both groups, the man, and Cassidy and I were so moved by the whole experience.  He offered to drive us back into Sarajevo and we accepted so we could continue to talk to him.  It was important for him to be sure we knew that we were now friends, that he was so glad we had been there to see the tunnel and hear the stories because now we would go back to America and share with our friends about what we had seen and learned. He was right. This experience is one I will never forget. I will share his story so others know. I can't express my gratitude for this experience. 

One of the other houses in the village

Outside the tunnel

The room where the video was shown

the exit of the tunnel

In the tunnel- remember I am only 5' 6".

Looking towards the airport and Sarajevo

The cart and tubes

The presidents chair, and the helmet

More memorabilia

The man with the truck he drove everyday through the mountains carrying supplies

After such an emotional and educational morning, we decided to stop for lunch. It was not raining at the time, so we decided to sit outside and eat so we could enjoy pigeon square.  The plan after lunch was to walk throughout the Old Town and find souvenirs!  Our first stop was a shirt store, with a very persistant shopkeeper!  On our way out he said, "Put on Take picture" and all the sudden I had a hat on my head and an instrument in my arms! Spontaneity is great!  Throughout the Old Town there are several mosques and Turkish baths. We weren't to meet the rest of the group for a while so we stopped for a break where I got some Salep- this was different than other Salep that I have had. Salep is a traditional drink from the Turkish Ottoman time which is made by grinding the dried tubers of the orchid flower, they usually add nutmeg and cinnamon. It was so tasty and just warm enough for the cool day!

Pigeon Square

Priceless photo op!

Gazi Husref-bey's Mosque in the Old Town

courtyard of the Gazi Husref-bey's Mosque

Salep

After leaving Old Town there were a few more sites that we stopped to see.  We saw the Sarajevo Cathedral in the city center.  We also saw the Serbian Orthodox Church, and we got there at a great time, there was a break in the clouds so the sun was shining on the already bright building! As we walked on, we stopped at the Eternal Flame. This flame was lit after WWII in remembrance of those that died, it has burned since except for a period during the war in the 1990s when it was extinguished. When it was re-lit, it was also in remembrance of those who had lost their lives again for the country. It now represents all those who have died for the country.

Sarajevo Cathedral - constructed in 1889

Serbian Orthodox Church

Eternal Flame

We met back up with Lizzie, Justin and Aryn to go to a traditional dinner. Man oh man it was good. I took a picture of the cool wooden menu. I ordered Tzatziki salad to start followed by peppered steak. I can safely say it was the tastiest steak I have had in the Balkans, it was so tender. The sauce had whole peppercorns in it and was so creamy. It was a brilliant end to an unforgettable day.

Lesson: I had never realized how much I take for granted living in a country where I don't daily have the fear that war will break out in my country, or my state, or my town, let alone my neighborhood.