Day 40 – 10/21/11 Friday - Bitola

country side leaving Skopje

Bitola HERE I COME!

It’s Friday and it was off to Bitola.  Buses here are a bit tricky here. You can be sure there will be some from town to town, the problem is there is no certain way to know when they are other than calling (takes language knowledge) and being there in person which doesn’t help in planning ahead.  For the trip, I did go ahead and check the website just to get an idea of when buses should be passing in front of SEE-U that I could get on and ride to Skopje.  Here you do not have to go to the station you can just wave one down!  Well my morning went a bit longer than planned… 

We had a speaker today at the University-"Building a Multi-ethnic State: a Post-Ohrid Challenge” that will be delivered by Ambassador Knut Vollebaek (OSCE High Commissioner on National Minorities) it was very interesting to hear about where the country is on its relations between the ethnic groups.  The overall feeling was that although relations seem to be better amongst the groups- no real dialogue is taking place, it is more like it is being brushed under the rug and ignored, making tensions greater.  In some communites students still go to school in shifts by ethinc groups.  The ambassador also spoke about the need to change from ethnicity defining who we are to having it be one part of who we are as well as our nationality or other groups we belong to.  It was great information that I may not have heard in the community other wise.

... back to my trip to Bitola- The buses (according to the website) that would pass by SEE-U and head to Skopje were at 11:05, 11:30 and 12:30 (with more throught the afternoon) . I got to the front of the school at 11:30- too late, becasue the time is what time they are to be at the bus station in town, so you have to be there before that time to catch it.  However there was a combi, so I put my bag in and began to wait for it to fill... by 11:47 there were only two of us, a male student and myself. BOO- this may take all day- however I knew that by 12:30 another bus should go by. I started to walk toward the road to watch and wave a bus down if it came by. Not 2 min later, my stuff was being moved to a smaller car, and the guys were arguing about something (language barrier AGAIN – ugh)  but the kid and I were in a car and headed to Skopje. On our way out of town we picked up an older Albanian couple. It was very obvious they came from the farm, only because of the scent that came with them. I am not trying to be rude, just paint a picture. It was not so bad that I had to open a window, or needed a sprite to settle my stomach though!

It was off to Skopje, green machine in the trunk, and the cute one (my other carry-on bag) in my lap. At this point you should know that I did not know where in Skopje we were headed- and no one in the car spoke English- I just figured that as we got closer or stopped the first time, I would just say, “bus staion...?”  As we drove I noticed that the driver seemed to be a very special and important guy!  I say this because he did not see it necessary to pay the tolls as we passed through- just a little beep of the horn after... I did notice however that the toll booth workers didn’t seem to reconize him for his importance. They only looked at us very perplexed as we drove on through.  Sure hope that doesn’t make me an accessory to a crime!  Just kidding mom!

The older couple had a bag of Ruffles chips- Ketchup flavored- that they brought with them. After the man opened them with a pocket knife, he offered them to each of us in the car.  Thanks to my Albanian classes I was able to say, “Falimenderit, jo” (Thank you, no).

The ride was silent but my head was spinning with how I was going to ask to go to the bus staion once in Skopje.  Should I say, “autobus?”  “autobus station?”  Should it be with an accent or without?  Should I use hand signals?   This continued as we drove into Skopje, getting closer and closer to the center.  I knew where I was but I also knew how far that meant we were from the bus station...  unfortunately the driver pulled over. The kid started to pay and get his things together, the couple got out their money, it was my time to use what I had been practicing the whole trip, it was time to say something!   “Bus station?” (no accent)  quite stare back at me  “Bus?” (no accent)  silence again no response, “just here?” (no accent but gesture)  Reponse!!!  “here”    Okay- this was the end of my trip- 120 denar and out I got.

As I walked away I saw before me what I had been warned about as far back as DC- the fast taxis. These taxis have no meters, no rules and crazy driving. NO I can’t be stuck like this-  I mean it wasn’t prohibited but just not a reccommended choice of travel.  I just kept walking and about 50 steps ahead there was a marked taxi- RADIO TAXI on the roof!  I waved at him so he knew I was coming his way.  I walked up and then the question again, accent or no?  Bus or autobus? Station or no station?

“Bus station?” (only station had an accent with it)  He shook his head yes and in I got!  As we started to drive, he said to me “bus?”  I said, “Yes, bus station”  pause “then to Bitola” (in hopes he would know I was trying to get on a bus to leave the city and not just any bus but a certian one.  He nodded and kept driving.  We got to the station, I knew where I was, I had done this two weeks ago on our trip to Gostivar.  I bought a ticket 470 denar – the lady that worked at the station spoke English!  Out to platform 6 I went – I was going to make it!  I got in a short line to put the green machine under the bus... but wait, they were exchanging money.. oh no, now what?  Turn around and smile at the guy behind me and say “Do you speak English?”  “Yes, I speak a little”  Hallelujah!  He explained it was 10 denar to check your bag under th bus.  Whew- easy!

 country side- there is bridge into the mountain

Between Bitola and Prilep

Between Bitola and Prilep

At 4:50 I arrived in Bitola and Lizzie and Justin were there waiting!  My first impression before the sun goes down- beautiful city!  Can’t wait to explore this weekend!

I do have to share dinner-  mom had requested I try Sarma which is a traditonal Macedonian meal.  I was happy to give it a try!  We also had another great dessert- I had fried Macedonian Ice Cream.  Pretty tasty!  I also took a picture of the Tavche Gravche (a bean dish).

Tavche Gravche (a bean dish).

Sarma - cabbage leaves filled with rice and meat

fried ice cream

Bitola City Center at night

Bitola City Center at night

Great start to a weekend!!

Lesson: I learned how NOT to travel to Skopje when you want to go to the bus station :)

Day 38 - 10/20/11 Thursday

Mirëmbrëma (good evening!)

Thursday brings class!  Today I thought I would take a picture of the group today to share with you.  In this picture the students are working on sharing sections of their reading.  They were split into four groups and during the picture they are making their visual aids for their presentations to the group.  Today’s topic was how to select materials for your classroom.

Shkumbin had to save the day again today- I think my computer just likes him or something and acts up so that he has to come fix it… oh well, at least I have a friend here with computer knowledge!  Faleminderit Shkumbin!!

Lesson: Friends help a place that is not home, feel more like home by just being around!

Day 37 - 10/19/11 Tuesday

Miredita miqte!  (good day friends!)

Conversation group brought 3 today!  This time I got to meet 3 female students from campus that I had not met before- pretty great stuff.  It is really great getting to sit down with people, getting to hear their life experiences and opinions.  I do have to admit, sometimes conversation can be difficult to start, especially when I am a bit removed from the college life scene. 

The photo shop where we took our pictures!

In a new process with the Embassy, we as Fulbright grant recipients are going to receive temporary residence in Macedonia.  This means we will have a card stating we are residents in place of a Visa. To do this, we had to go have our pictures taken.  After asking around, Vesna helped us know where to go and have them taken.  Here is a picture of the little shop.  The man was very helpful and kind, we actually got 6 pictures out of the deal!  I am really excited about the fact that we are getting this card. I am hoping this will mean no more having to register with the police upon entering and leaving the country.  It is not that it is bad, it is just labor intensive, especially when you are living on a campus and don't have a person that is considered your landlord to take you.... but such is life. Cross your fingers that all turns out with the card!

Tonight Cassidy and I went to visit Loja a Non-Governmental Organization here in Tetovo. This NGO was created during the Kosovo war in 1999. A group of actors were trying to bring joy, and relief to refugee children from Kosovo.  After the struggle, the group decided they wanted to make continue the same kind of effort of giving back to their own country and people of Macedonia.  Loja was formed.  Today it is a group of people working to bridge the gap of understanding between the different ethnic groups that call Macedonia home.  It is a self sustaining group, that has not once received money from the Macedonian government. Despite their lack of support from the MK government, the people seem to be more receptive. Here is a great video about what Loja does:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3muc80-Poo

The door to Loja

The city/government refuses to pick up the garbage outside, even when events have been planned. At the time of the festival, the people of Loja covered it with a black tarp.

 

After talking with the director of the NGO, we decided to do to Delfin, a restaurant near the center, for some dinner before we went back for the film festival. I have to give a bit of background knowledge prior to this next part.  When packing, I had a difficult time deciding what to bring and what I was going to need, as you know from my posts here during the beginning of September.  For the most part I did a pretty good job, but now as I am using what I had packed, I do see some holes in the wardrobe.  One of those holes was light weight gloves. I have the heavy gloves for a 

GLOVES!

snowball fight... but not gloves for days when your hands are just chilly/cold.  So Cassidy and I had been looking for some of the light weight gloves. To our dismay, they were not as easy to find as they are in America, at the grocery store, Walgreens, Walmart, the gas station... so it has been a search.  Well walking out of Loja and to dinner, there was a table set up near the center. A man and his two sons were working the table.  We could see hats and socks, and thought, maybe just maybe...  we walked to the table, and there in front of us were 2 pairs of light weight gloves!  We asked how much they were, and the man asked us if we spoke German (this isn't the first time I have been asked that) and when we said no, the younger one said, English? When we said yes the older son, maybe 9 years old, said, Hello, and that father patted him on the back and said, he speak English.  The gloves were 100 denar, which is about 2.50 usd... we shared with them that we were Fulbright students and here to help people learn English, the little boy said, "Thank you for helping us learn English".  It was such an amazing moment!  What a sweet little boy!!!

After dinner it was back to Loja for the film festival. The event started with a man from the German Embassy welcoming everyone, followed by the translations of what he said in both Macedonian and Albanian (picture below).  Seeing this really reminds me of how one-dimensional many of us are as Americans, no where do we go regularly that what is being said is in several languages, or translated into headphones you can wear.  It is pretty cool!  The movie then started it was in German (obviously since it was a German film festival).  Across the top of the screen were the subtitles in Albanian, and then across the bottom were English... only they were covered up by the Macedonian :).  Luckily from time to time the English would pop up before the Macedonian, or stay longer than the Macedonian, so I could pick up a few words here or there.  It wasn't hard to watch and understand most of what was going on, but I am sure I missed a lot of the moral of the story!  It was still a lot of fun!

The man from the German embassy and the Loja translators in both Macedonian and Albanian

Lesson: Living in harmony with one another takes more than just words, it is actions too!

Day 36 – 10/17/11 Monday

Miredita!  Une jam Jen kush une nga Tetovo. Po ti?

 (Good day! I am Jen I am from Tetovo. And you?)

Today was Albanian class.  I keep learning more and more!  But I also need to practice more and more. Learning French in High School was tough, so I knew coming in that it wouldn’t come as easy to me.  I do have to say that living around people who speak the language all around you helps.  Tomorrow I will be starting Macedonian class as well.  This class will be with students though, not staff. I am going to have to work really hard, because some of them will also be students that are in my class :)

Cassidy came today to Tetovo, and we were going to go to an event at the American Corner with a live stream of Martin Luther King Jr.’s son. Unfortunately the power went out at the American Corner, so it was called off… sad face.  But don’t worry we are world travelers living abroad, we found something to do with no problem!

Crocheting and American TV

American TV

That’s right, American TV on our computers, and crochet!  As you can see two computers, while one loads a show we watch the other!  BRILLIANT I  KNOW!  Now as for the crochet, this is Cassidy’s first day. I just happened to have two size P hooks perfect for making blankets, so Cassidy is now a proud owner of a size P crochet hook, and a bag of yarn to make her own blanket.  Pretty cool huh? 

Diten a mire!!!

Lesson: There is always ways to keep yourself busy!

Day 35 – 10/16/11 Sunday

Big day – HUGE!  The coffee maker is great and I found coffee I can drink black!  What a difference this will make in quality of life!  I have not always been a coffee drinker, but as long as I have been, it has always been straight black coffee, no sugar, no milk, no creamer; so moving here has been an adjustment.  I have enjoyed every beverage I have tasted and ordered. However sometimes you just want some black coffee.  This morning I woke up and brewed a pot and it was WONDERFUL!  I am already looking forward to tomorrow morning!

Today was going to be a journey to a village outside of Tetovo, but plans had to change… that just means I get to look forward to the journey another day.  I did however walk to the center to meet a new friend for coffee.  I want to share another difference about the culture here. I have mentioned that going to coffee is very common, this is also true on the weekends.  Many people especially of the 20 – 40 year olds, go out for coffee about noon on weekends and the shops become very full until about 3 when everyone goes home for the family lunch.  I really like this tradition.  It is refreshing to go out and socialize, granted I don’t know people yet to talk to anyone other than who I have gone to coffee with, but everyone around me is socializing which is great to be a part of!  People here seem to have “more time”. I am not saying they are not busy, unemployment is high, which is a difference it is more of a lifestyle choice though than in America.  Most people just make more time to have coffee with friends, stand and talk to people. This is an important part of the culture.

Lesson: I had heard that I would learn this before I left, but take time to enjoy life!

Day 33 - 10/14/11 Friday

Vesna and I at the Language Center

Typical day at the Language Center… one exciting part of the day was that I booked my flight to Zagreb, Croatia.  The first week/weekend of November the English Teaching Assistants from this area get to have a training together in Zagreb.  Pretty awesome place to go for a training!  Lizzie and I will leave Wednesday morning, and have trainings through Friday evening. Then we are going to stay on our own until Sunday to see the city!  Cassidy has decided to come along with us so we can all look around together!  Pretty awesome!

I also walked to the yarn store again today- bought the yarn for blanket #3.  I also took a picture of the progress on blanket #2!

New Yarn

Blanket #2

Day 34 – 10/15/11 Saturday

KIDS CLUB!  I started Kids Club today at the American Corner here in Tetovo. It is a club for kids 3-6 years old.  It was so great to hang out with kids!  Since it is National Pizza Month in America, today’s theme was Pizza!  I shared with them a video of Elmo singing the pizza song, then a video of Kids Cook USA- where the kids were making Pizza, we then talked about favorite toppings, made a graph on the computer (while counting in English), and finished by drawing our own Pizzas.  It was so much fun.  With my 3 Albanian Classes I was able to introduce myself, ask them their names, and tell them where I am from.  It got more difficult after that, I used pictures of pizza and toppings, but Saranada, one of the the wonderful people who works at the American Corner, would translate to the kids so they knew what I was saying.  I think it all went very well, but I couldn’t have done it without her :)  I will post pictures when I get them from the American Corner!

The kids

Counting favorite toppings

Counting in English!

Drawing our favorite pizza

Counting in English

Following my time at the AC, I met Vesna for coffee, today I had Hazelnut hot chocolate. It was really tasty- hot chocolate is much more like “hot chocolate” not so watery. It was really tasty!  We then proceeded to take a trip to buy a hair dryer. Before I left the states, I said to myself, I can buy one there.  Then when I got here I thought, do I even really need one?  So I had been going without one. But I gave in, and decided with the cold weather I wanted to sleep with dry hair, and that I also wanted the option of washing my hair in the morning without having to go to work with wet hair!  While at the store, I made another purchase.  I have been really wanting black coffee.  Most coffee here has milk or sugar or both in it. The closest thing you can order is an espresso.  So I bought a coffee maker.  Now the search begins for coffee that I like. I bought some yesterday that didn’t turn out quite like I had hoped, but we found another type today to try!  If nothing else, it is an easy way to make hot water- I am having some hot tea as I type this :)

I decided on the walk back to campus I hadn’t really taken too many street shot photos, so I got out my camera to do just that… it happened to be PERFECT timing, a Macedonian wedding procession passed right as I took out my camera.  Weddings are a bit different here, which is to be expected.  This procession of cars goes to all the locations for the day.  First from the grooms home to the brides home, where there is a “struggle” for the groom to get in the house and he throws money to come in, then when they get inside, there are shoes that are presented, and the bride drinks from the shoe.  Then they all proceed to the church where the ceremony is attended only by relatives and close family friends.  Then it is to the municipality to sign the legal documents.  Then they proceed to the restaurant where the other guests join and they have the party!  Pretty cool traditions!  I also learned they don’t have a wedding party like many people do in America. Usually it is just the Best Man and one other person man or woman, and then the families.  

The Lead Car with the flag

The second car and the one with the most decorations

Another car in the procession

 There were other things I decided to take pictures of the walk as well!  First a typical street view.  Second, it is VERY common to have cars parked on the sidewalks.  Third I have also seen goats in different places around the city, these happen to be having a little snack.  Forth, the most modern building I have seen in Tetovo; it is a business where they get jobs for people in Iraq.

 Lesson: No matter what country or culture, weddings are something to celebrate!

Day 32 - 10/13/11 Thursday

Teaching in Macedonia was the topic of our class today.  Being that that would not be my expertise, Mirjeta did most of the teaching today and we just compared the realities in Macedonia to America. This was a class where I was able to learn more about the educational system in Macedonia. Mirjeta brought a guest speaker, one of her former students who is now a teacher at two schools here in Macedonia.  One of the schools is a newer facility in Tetovo, and the other is old and in a village.  Her experiences although her own, seem to be very common here.  There are not enough resources: books, chalk boards, paper, copies, etc.  The teachers have to pay for their own copies of things if they want them for their class.  I know that some of our schools in America also have poor conditions!  Its just a stark contrast from what I experience in Nebraska.

I asked more questions about the elementary schools and how they organize themselves with sharing space. The schools go morning and afternoon, however it is the same school name and same principal, but the teachers are different.  A very interesting concept.  I think my next question will be, if you as a teacher wanted to, could you teach both groups?  I am curious because the guest speaker that we had taught at two schools. I didn't think to ask at the time if this was by choice or if she was not allowed to teach at the same school all day.

I was also able to see some of the standards for here in Macedonia. It was interesting how they are organized similarly to our in the US, there are units and themes, but it does not get into as much detail as some of ours do. These gave topic and suggested activities. Some of our guides go all the way to what we teach which days.  We also discussed the differences in testing- which were big. Most of the students had not heard of standardized testing... lucky kids!  There are tests but it does not seem to be nearly has high stakes as ours are.  Very interesting to start comparing two very different countries!!

No interesting pictures to share today, but new knowledge about the schools!!

Day 31 - 10/12/11 Wednesday

Today was conversation group again.  This time 3 guys showed up for conversation!  I have to say I was pretty excited. My opinion is that this is such a great opportunity for students. They come and have an hour a week with a native English speaker. Its really great!  We of course didn't stay on topic, but really there are no rules for what we need to talk about.  I also got a lot from the conversation. Although I did not need to practice my English I was able to hear these 3 students' opinions and views about America and Macedonia.  It is moments like this that really enrich  my experience while here.

Vesna drove me to the yarn store again today. I decided that I needed some black yarn to start making hats.  This is my second time getting yarn on my own. Walking back to campus I also stopped at another shop to get safety pins to put the flowers I crochet onto the hats as well.  This was quite an experience.  I searched and searched through the store for safety-pins, hoping that I wouldn't have to ask since I didn't know the word for safety-pin.  I finally had to give in and ask for some help. Unfortunately safety-pin is not a common word... I tried acting it out a bit... not well though.  Then I decided that pictures are universal, so I pulled out my travel journal and drew a picture!  It worked!  She went behind the counter and pulled out some safety-pins!!!  What an experience :)

Lesson: Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Day 29 and 30 - 10/10/11 and 10/11/11 Monday and Tuesday

I am combining these posts for two reasons, its Tuesday and I haven't done yesterday's post yet, and these two days are not packed with events to share or knowledge to impart.

Tuesday was Resistance Day in Macedonia which is a state holiday meaning everything is closed.  Since many students at the University are commuter students who go home on the weekends, the university was also closed on Monday.  This meant no classes or going to the office.

When I woke up Monday I was greeted with surprise. As I had said in the previous posts, it had gotten colder here... this morning there was snow on the mountain tops!  Not much, but enough to see and take a picture of to share!

I went to meet Vesna for coffee today.  During our coffee, I mentioned to her that I was wanting a coat that was in between the jacket I had and the big heavy winter coat.  When we were done, she took me to a boutique on the corner, and low and behold they had the perfect thing and I fell in love with it!  I of course had to take shots to share with you!!  

The coat

Leather :)

No class or work meant more "me" time.  Previously this would have been daunting and lonely but with my new crochet projects and two languages to study- I was looking forward to it!  I finished the first blanket, and just in time for the cold weather!! (It is more yellow than it looks) Now I will start the blanket for the other bed in the room for when visitors come :)

spread out on the bed

Close up of the border