Day 56 - Sunday 11/6/11

Compared to yesterday, anything would be more low key... we had done a lot and were tired from our adventures.  But we were in Zagreb and we couldn't waste it indoors all day!!  We started our day by stopping at a grocery store on the corner to get something for breakfast... it turned out to be a VERY profitable trip.  I found: sesame oil, Thai red curry sauce packet, Tabasco sauce, taco sauce, and coconut milk... all things I have not yet figured out where to buy back in Macedonia.  I was GOING to find a way to get them in my suitcase and back to Tetovo!!   I didn't find anything that sounded good to me for breakfast.. but there was a popcorn vendor outside on the street corner, so I got that for breakfast :)   Today's journey was going to be more walking with two goals, first to find books in Croatian and then to have lunch at a specific restaurant.

The walk turned out to be very successful- we walked through the park, by the botanical gardens (that are closed till April 1st - rats!!), more amazing architecture... One thing I noticed about Zagreb, at least the part we were in, was the difference in the architecture of Skopje...in Skopje the architecture is more soviet style, which makes perfect sense when you remember that there was a terrible earthquake there in 1963 and many things were re-built. In Zagreb the architecture dates back hundreds and in some cases thousands of years.  But back to our journey of the day...  Being that it was Sunday finding an open bookstore was seeming to be a bit of a problem... HOWEVER there was a mall open, and they had a toy store and there in the back were books!  I have decided that there are 3 things that I now collect when I travel.  1. paintings, drawings or artwork from the country 2. a Christmas tree ornament  and 3. books in that language for my classroom.  I now had collected all three!












Our last stop was Hansel & Gretel's Restaurant.  It had a great atmosphere!  I had Slovanian Pepper Steak which was a flat steak that was folded in half with pepperoni inside, and then a peppery sauce on top- it was DELICIOUS!  For dessert we stopped at the little pastry shop next door that was fashioned like the witches house from the story- it looked as though it was a gingerbread house with candy!  It was a wonderful last stop in Croatia!!



That was our journey, we went back to the hostel, rested a bit, and then it was off to the airport... 

I have to share a bit more about our airport experience.  We took a tram from the hostel to the bus station, to catch a bus to the airport.  All went without a hitch, and we were there by 7:45 for our 9:10 flight.  The guy at check-in said to be to our gate by 8:10... the funny part was it was impossible to do so because the security gate was closed.... all the people that were on the last 5 flights out of Zagreb were sitting/standing waiting till about 8:20 or so for the security check to open... made it pretty hard for us to get to our gate by 8:10... but at least we weren't alone in it!  After getting through security we went through passport control and got our stamp in our passports for leaving the country. This brought up an interesting question for me.  If we had been stamped as "leaving Croatia"  what country were we in?  Did we have a location?  Did we even exist?  Now these questions may have had to do with the fact that I was extremely tired, but Cassidy and I got a good laugh and discussion from it!   We waited about 10 or 15 min before boarding the bus to the plane started. However halfway through people boarding the bus, they stopped us and told us it would be 5 more min. We sat down, but could see the poor people that had already gone through the gate with their boarding passes just standing on the bus.  Sometimes it pays to not be at the front of the line I guess.  Not sure why we had to wait, but after the 5 min we were able to get on a bus to the plane.  The flight went with no problems... even though it was a bit loud since it was a propeller plane :)  We made it back to Skopje about midnight and melted into our beds.
bags packed waiting for the bus to the airport....


Lesson: Have faith that they system will work even if it is different than what you are use to!

Day 55 - Saturday 11/5/11

Today was sight seeing day!!!  Cassidy and I started our day by going to check in at our hostel. We had booked through a site called hostelbookers.com.  This is a site where you can type in a location you are traveling too, and then available hostels are shown that you can book. A hostel can look a lot of different ways, it can be like a dorm with lots of beds, or more of a single apartment. The thought behind them is they are a cheaper alternative than hotels for traveling. Ours was a bit more expensive, but it was an apartment all to ourselves and did have free wi-fi.  Here is our hostel:


Following our check-in we began our journey around Zagreb. Our first stop was at the Croatian School Museum. This was a museum totally dedicated to education in Croatia.  There were displays and artifacts from hundreds of years into the past. As a teacher, I was comparing in my head to the education system that I know and now work in.  There were many similarities as far as the look of their classrooms and manipulatives.  It was a great museum to start our day!


We then decided to start our walk towards the Upper Town of Zagreb.  This is the area north of the actual city square, it is also the oldest part of Zagreb.  We were coming from the southwest of the upper town... just walking knowing an end destination but not really having a plan for which way we were going to get there. Walking up a hill, Cassidy saw a walkway with a steep incline that we decided looked like it went towards upper town.  I am so glad we took the walkway. We would have gotten there if we had continued walking up the street, but this was an absolutely beautiful walk way- once we were past the VERY steep incline.   Here are pictures of where it lead us:




We found a souvenir shop at the end of our walk.  Cassidy and I decided that we need to help Macedonia get more "tourist friendly"- we are going to start a list to provide to the tourist group when we leave. This list will include: souvenir shops, bus or shuttle travel from the airport since it is out of the city a ways, tourist center with maps, websites that are current and updated with information on transportation and activities in the city... and I am sure the list will grow :)  But back to Zagreb-  We of course found some items that we had to purchase... I found some hand drawn pictures of the city, I am going to start a collection of artwork from the cities I travel to!  Christmas ornaments, magnets etc were also purchased!  The view from this spot was beautiful, so we stopped to take some pictures as we were serinaded by a man with a guitar on the street corner... it was a really awesome atmosphere!  It was then that it really hit me that I was a world traveler... I was in another European city!  It really was all that I had dreamed it up to be- beautiful buildings, music, great cafes... I could get use to seeing new places!!  (Just for the record though, I still think that home is home, and living in the states is where I want to live, but traveling is pretty great).


Photos of our Upper Town self-walking tour:
Government buildings

Government buildings























The next stop was the Museum of Broken Relationships.  I really enjoyed this museum. It was very different than the others we went to... all the exhibits in the museum were items that represented the end of relationships that people have had. Some were more humorus, like the guy who was deeply in love with his girlfriend, they had moved in together, but she was not ready for more of a commitment, she left town for a week or two, and he found out it was to visit her other boyfriend. He bought and ax, and to relieve his anger, he chopped up all of the furniture she had left at his apartment while she was away. When she came back for it it was in piles of wood... the item on display was the ax.  But there were also tragic ones, wedding albums from relationships that were not what they seemed to be. Stuffed animals that were representations of the love two people shared.  A love letter that a woman wrote for her boyfriend that was away, when she asked him in an email for his address to send it to him, he broke up with her...she glued the letter to glass and then shattered it, the exhibit was the shattered letter... These items have been donated from people all over the world.  It was an amazing museum!




The next museum was Gallerija Klovicevi Dvori.  This was more of a traditional art museum.  Most of the works were classic and/or traditional. Many oil paintings on paper, canvas, cardboard... sculptures... it was really beautiful.  I really appreciated the time that must have gone into many of these pieces of work. 

Then it was to the Zagreb City Museum.  This museum was the history of the town of Zagreb.  I enjoy history, unfortunately most of the write ups for the exhibits were in Croatian, which meant un-readable for Cassidy and I.  Although the words would have been interesting, we were able to get a lot of information from just looking!  There were also write ups in English when the time periods switched so we were able to get some information in writing as we walked into each room.  The name of Zagreb was first used in the 11th century!!  As I was walking through the exhibits, it was amazing to me to think of the history that cities and countries have around Europe (not just Europe, all over, but for this purpose I was thinking about Europe).  America has rich history but as a country it dates back only a few hundred years... the land has more of a story and history though.  But looking at the thousands of years of history for the city of Zagreb put me into a state of reflection.... we continued on all the way to 1991 when Croatia fought for its independence as a country. I was literally speechless looking at the photos of this time period... it was war, in pictures that were of the same quality of pictures I am in back home.  This was a war that I was alive for.  This involved everyday people, children, families... I still don't really have words for the emotions that were stirred up inside of me....and these pictures were not unique to just Croatia, but to all of the countries of the Former Yugoslavia...

After all the walking and museums, we decided we needed a bit of something to eat, but not too much since we were going to dinner in not too many hours!  We stopped at a little shop, Cassidy got a pastry and I got another type of Burek- Sarajevski style.  We sat in the center and enjoyed our treats!

We then decided to walk towards the Zagrebačka katedrala.  This is a catholic cathedral just next to the city square.  The detail on the architecture was really indescribable!  I have photos for you to see, but I am not sure it can really do justice to what it looks like from the ground up... I took lots of pictures trying to capture each angle that I saw... On the north side of the cathedral was an old fortress and on the south side a museum. At this point we decided that we were a bit tired for the museum.. we journeyed to the post office, by the train station-  lesson learned here- post office lines are long no matter what country you are in :)  Then back to the hostel to let our feet rest before they fell off!!  We walked SO far this day- but it was wonderful all the sites we saw!



For dinner we met Jessica and Elizabeth two other Fulbright ETAs for dinner. We went to an Indian Restaurant.  Although it was not the Oven, The Peacock, Janpur, or Taj Mahal... it was Indian food!!  I had chicken curry with garlic naan!

After that Cassidy and I made our way back to the hostel... we sat on the couch commiserating our sore feet... flipping through channels when low and behold... COLLEGE FOOTBALL!!!  It was the perfect end to a wonderful day!  I got to watch the Iowa vs Michigan game... along with updates from the Husker game... which was not a highlight! 

This was a jam packed day- filled with images of architectural beauty, the realities of war, and the feeling of being a world traveler.  Pretty amazing day!

Lesson: It only takes one image and moment to influence a persons perspective forever.

Day 53 - Thursday 11/3/11 and Day 54 - Friday 11/4/11

These two days were mostly training, and since I commented on yesterday's post about the workshops, I am going to skip to the dinner on Thursday and then on to Friday!

Thursday night we all went to dinner as a group to Agava.  This restaurant was up off the road a bit and was beautiful.  This meal consisted of 4 courses!!!  It was also filled with great conversation. It was great to sit and talk with these other Fulbright scholars going through the same experiences as I am. I am so glad that we are getting to know each other better and building relationships amongst us as a group!
The restaurant
Course #1

Course #2

Course #3
Course #4

Other ETAs I sat with at dinner

Friday after training, Mary, Jessica, Elizabeth, Cassidy and I headed off for the National Theater. I should say, Cassidy joined us again now that our conference was over for a weekend of exploring Zagreb.  I also have to note how much we missed Lizzie...she was home sick. BOO!!!   We went to the theater to purchase tickets for that evening's ballet. We took some photos of the theater during the daylight hours, purchased our tickets and went on our way... to H&M clothing store!  I did purchase some items here :)  We then went to Nova for dinner.  This was an all vegetarian restaurant which was an experience we had not yet had!  I had green gnocchi and tofu with mushroom sauce.

Buying tickets to the Ballet
Dinner


After dinner it was to the ballet!!!!  This particular ballet was about the works of a local poet and was all in Croatian which left much to our own interpretation. It was still beautiful and a wonderful experience!!
The theater at night
From the balcony




Lesson: The arts maybe created in one language but can be appreciate in any language!

Day 52 - Wednesday 11/2/11

To think not even 4 moths ago I was trying to plan for navigation through the Washington DC airport and metro system to get to the hotel for Fulbright training. I was worried about turning down the wrong street, missing the metro stop I was suppose to take...I was nervous, but now that seems like nothing!  I knew the language, I had a cell phone that could call anywhere in the US to any friend who could google something for me. Now today, I navigated through Zagreb, Croatia!  What a difference 4 months can make!

Cassidy and I left her apartment in Skopje at 3:15am to drive to the Skopje airport for our 5:45am flight to Zagreb. All went as planned and we landed safely in Zagreb at 8:25am!  It was then off to the hotel to meet Mary, another ETA in the region. Cassidy was going on in her journey to Zadar, Croatia to visit Erin (her roommate back in Skopje).  I took tram #6 and although I got off a bit earlier than necessary, I made it to the hotel.  It was a beautiful entry way!! 
The outside of the hotel




















I waited for Mary in the lobby since we could not check-in until after 12 noon.  We headed out on our first Zagreb adventure- First stop was a mall for a little bit of shopping ( I didn't buy anything...yet), coffee, and some breakfast.  I had Bucnica, a pastry type food with different fillings, mine had cottage cheese, sour cream and egg- VERY good!

After our shopping/food stop we headed across the street to the Contemporary Art Museum.  It happened to be the first Wednesday of the month, so there was no admission charge! However we did decide to "rent" and audio wand that we could point at exhibits, click a little button and then hear (in English) the explanation of the piece of artwork. It was a 3 floor museum with work ranging from socialist period works, to current exhibits. There were some amazing works!  To get down to the main floor you could take the stairs, the elevator, or this AMAZING SLIDE!  We chose the slide!!!
The Contemporary Art Museum

The slide !


From there we went back to the hotel to check in. We met another ETA, Kammi, and we walked to the center to find a bit of lunch before our first sessions started that afternoon.  I will comment on all of the workshop here in this post rather than each day... Getting to meet with the other ETAs from our region was invaluable!  We were given the opportunity to share with each other struggles, things that have not worked, success and things that have worked. Getting to be together has really rejuvenated me. In addition to getting to hear about each other's teaching experiences, we also spoke a lot about life in our cities/town and countries. I learned so much about the former Yugoslavia countries, but I also was reminded how much I do not know about the area and still want to learn. I would consider this workshop a huge piece of my learning thus far!!

That night we all went to dinner as a group to a pizza place in the center.  I can honestly say- I do not miss or crave pizza living here... its EVERYWHERE!  I for some reason did not think it would be so prevalent in the area... but it sure is!  The pizza was wonderful, and the conversation was even better!
At dinner

Lesson: Fulbright Program's goal is to make the world a smaller place through relationships- this week has already been just that!